I live in San Telmo for over five years and not far from my home there is Mercado de San Telmo. Also known as San Telmo market. These days a hotspot for new food bars, getting your fresh fruits and vegetables and of course meat. In the last couple of years, San Telmo market got an upgrade and is a pleasant place to stroll around.
I explain to you where Mercado de San Telmo is located, the best time to visit, and what to discover in the oldest food market in Buenos Aires.
Read also: 8 Mistakes tourists make in Buenos Aires
San Telmo market, where is that?
San Telmo market is about 5 minutes walk from Plaza Dorrego. The square is where you regularly see tango dancers practicing. It is also a 15-minute walk from Plaza de Mayo where the presidential palace is located.
You will definitely pass Mercado de San Telmo when you visit the oldest neighborhood of Buenos Aires. If you walk down the street Defensa, you may be more likely to overlook the entrance. If you walk down the street Bolivar, you will immediately see the large entrance.
You will undoubtedly also walk in the street Defensa if you want to visit the open-air market on Sunday.
The address is Bolivar 970, Buenos Aires.
Best time to visit Mercado de San Telmo
Personally, I find the morning is the best time to visit Mercado de San Telmo. The shops open around 10 am and you can have a coffee in the middle of the market. Really nice to watch the neighborhood wake up and see food deliveries coming.
Do you want to be sure that there is a lot of life in the market? Then I advise you to go to San Telmo market around 5 pm. Greengrocers are still open, food bars are getting ready for Merienda and the antique shops are still open. More about Merienda you can be read here.
Sundays, are the busiest day there. Because the San Telmo open-air market is in the street Defensa.
The food market is open every day from 10 am. During the week the market closes at 9 pm, on Saturday at 10 pm and Sunday at 8 pm.
What to discover?
In 2017 when I first visited the food market, it was a basic food market with greengrocers, butchers, antique shops, and many vacant buildings. In less than two years Mercado de San Telmo has been converted into a hip market that also houses food bars, a coffee bar, a bakery, nice shops to buy gifts, leather goods, and so much more. On top of that, since shortly you can find a Belgian Frites take away, yeah, I’m Belgian after all 😛
Also, my favorite Empanada store is there. Super delicious! You need to try it out.
A little bit of history
San Telmo Market was built in 1897 to centralize the fruit and vegetable shops. The neighborhood was then expanding considerably and a large covered market hall was more than welcome to meet the need. Over the years it has kept its function and has since become a hotspot for nice bars and good quality fruit and vegetable shops.